How to understand wave prediction?

Hello people!

We recently wrote an article with 6 good wave forecasting sites. But do they really work? There is some risk of looking at a website, seeing that the wave forecast is good, getting ready, sleeping early, putting things in the car arriving at the beach and ... it's flat.

Unfortunately the risk is high, as the quality of the wave is influenced by many things: wave direction, size, direction and strength of the wind and bottom.

In Brazil, this last item ends up having a greater impact and it is usually it that ends with the websites' forecasts. We live in a country essentially formed by beach breaks, that is, with peaks with a sandy bottom. Sand moves, right? In other words, you never know if the peak will be right there or if the sand will be scattered.

The best way to prevent a bad forecast is to start understanding how they are made and why the types of waves and wind indicated for your favorite peak are really the best.

I'm not a mega-hyper-specialist, but I tried to study this a while ago, I understood some things that made sense to me and, I think it's cool to share here. But it would be great to hear from experts, so if you're one, don't hesitate to comment below!